Naples is a city that has turned almost everything into a ritual: coffee, pizza, babà, and sfogliatella. Yet few people know that gelato—or rather, sorbet—also has a long and distinguished history here.
As early as 1694, Antonio Latini, a master chef in the service of the Spanish Viceroyalty, wrote that in Naples it seemed as though everyone was born “with the genius and instinct to make sorbets.” It was no poetic exaggeration. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the city was truly a capital of sweet cold treats: snow was brought down from Vesuvius and Monte Faito, stored in pits dug in the woods, and then transported to Naples, where it was turned into sorbet, limonea, and spuma gelata.
In 1775, the Neapolitan physician Filippo Baldini published one of the first treatises dedicated to sorbets. A few years later, Vincenzo Corrado, a highly refined gastronome, compiled dozens of recipes. It was in that milieu that the “coviglia” was also born—a semifreddo served in small metal cups, halfway between a mousse, ice cream, and an aristocratic memory.
Today, the coviglia has all but disappeared. It can still be found in some historic cafés and pastry shops, but often more as a sentimental relic than as a truly living dessert. Yet it’s worth seeking out, because it tells the story of an elegant, 18th-century, theatrical Naples: a city capable of turning cold treats into a cultured pleasure, not just a summer snack.
Leopardi and Neapolitan Sorbet
Among the great lovers of Neapolitan gelato was Giacomo Leopardi. Having arrived in Naples in 1833 with Antonio Ranieri, the poet frequented cafés and sorbet shops with an almost legendary passion. Ranieri’s memoirs recount repeated orders, cups piling up on the table, and onlookers who stopped to watch that fragile and brilliant poet as he devoured one gelato after another.
Tradition has it that even a few hours before his death, Leopardi asked for a lemon sorbet. It is a powerful image: the poet of the infinite, in a Naples plagued by cholera and scorched by the sun, seeking one last pleasure in a lemon sorbet.
Is Naples still a city of gelato?
Here, the matter becomes more complicated. Naples remains a world capital of sweets, but artisanal gelato has not enjoyed the same success as pizza or pastries. Many gelaterias today focus on very sugary flavors, inspired by industrial cookies, snack bars, spreads, and ready-made desserts. These are easy, comforting flavors, often loved by tourists and young people, but they don’t always reflect the local character.
True Neapolitan gelato, on the other hand, should evoke lemons, Vesuvian apricots, hazelnuts, good milk, chocolate, almonds, citrus fruits, and seasonal fruit. It should be less flashy and more precise—less “Instagram” and more about the ingredients.
Fortunately, some places are holding their ground. Some are gelaterias in their own right, while others are pastry shops or chocolate shops that have applied the same care to gelato as they do to chocolate, creams, and traditional desserts.
Our ranking of the best gelato shops in Naples and the surrounding area
This is not meant to be an exhaustive ranking, but a thoughtful guide for those staying in Naples who want to enjoy good gelato without wasting time on tourist traps and generic products.
- Gay Odin – gelato from Neapolitan chocolatiers
For chocolate lovers, Gay Odin remains one of the safest bets. This historic Neapolitan chocolate factory has brought its expertise in cocoa, hazelnuts, dark chocolate, and creams to gelato. The result is an elegant gelato, less flashy than many competitors’, with particularly well-crafted chocolate flavors.
The location on Via Benedetto Croce is also very convenient for those strolling through the historic center: it’s situated along Spaccanapoli, not far from Santa Chiara and San Domenico Maggiore.
Must-try: forest chocolate, dark chocolate, hazelnut, acorn.
- Poppella – Gelato in the Heart of Sanità
Poppella is best known for its “fiocco di neve” (snowflake), but in recent years it has also developed an interesting gelato menu. The Sanità location is perfect for those visiting the neighborhood, the Catacombs of San Gaudioso, Palazzo dello Spagnolo, or the Fontanelle Cemetery.
Here, the gelato engages with Neapolitan pastry traditions and the city’s popular tastes. It’s not the most “purist” spot, but it’s very Neapolitan in character, energy, and its ability to transform a dessert into an experience.
Must-try: pastiera, tarallo, fruit sorbets.
- Mennella – the reassuring classic
Mennella is one of the best-known names in Campania’s gelato scene. Founded in Torre del Greco, the brand has expanded significantly throughout Naples and its province. This very growth has divided opinions: for some, it remains a reliable go-to; for others, it has lost some of its original artisanal touch.
It remains, however, a good choice for those seeking simple, recognizable gelato with traditional flavors and a widespread presence throughout the city. It doesn’t always surprise, but it often satisfies.
Must-try: hazelnut, pistachio, vanilla, citrus sorbets.
- Casa Infante – gelato and pastries with a contemporary twist
Casa Infante is another well-known name in Naples. Here, too, the line between gelateria, pastry shop, and modern concept is blurred. It’s not the place for a simple, quiet gelato experience, but it can be a pleasant stop for those seeking a richer, more colorful experience—perfect for an evening stroll.
It’s a particularly convenient choice for those looking for a dessert after dinner or a break during a city tour.
Must-try: cream flavors, pastry-inspired flavors, and chocolate.
- Fantasia Gelati – a Vomerese staple
Located at Via Cilea 80 and Largo Alessandro Lala 30, Fantasia Gelati is more of a neighborhood gelateria than a tourist postcard spot, but that’s precisely what makes it interesting. In recent years, it has closed several branches, but the ones that remain are definitely worth a visit.
Must-try: classic cream flavors, fruit, pistachio.
- Chalet Ciro – Gelato with a Sea View
Chalet Ciro is an institution on the Neapolitan waterfront. More than a “gourmet” gelateria, it’s a ritual destination: gelato, graffa, coffee, and a stroll along the sea. It’s the perfect spot if your goal isn’t just to eat a cone, but to enjoy Naples at its most picturesque.
After a visit to Castel dell’Ovo or a stroll down Via Partenope, it makes for a very pleasant stop.
Must-try: creamy gelato, graffa, whipped cream.
- Fratelli Bilancione – the Posillipo tradition
In Posillipo, Fratelli Bilancione is a historic name. It’s a less central spot, but worth visiting for those who decide to explore the city’s scenic area, between Marechiaro, Via Posillipo, and Parco Virgiliano.
Here, gelato is part of a family and neighborhood tradition, far removed from the fast-paced tourism of the historic center.
Must-try: traditional flavors, hazelnut, and chocolate.
Where to Go from Casetta Correra
Guests staying at Casetta Correra, just a short walk from Piazza Dante, are in a very convenient location to plan a short gelato stroll.
The simplest route is toward the historic center: from Piazza Dante, cross Port’Alba, head to Via San Sebastiano, and then on to Spaccanapoli. In just a few minutes, you’ll reach Gay Odin on Via Benedetto Croce. It’s probably the most convenient and logical choice for those who want good gelato without straying too far.
A second route leads toward Sanità: from Piazza Dante, you can walk to the Archaeological Museum and then head down toward the Sanità district, where Poppella offers the perfect sweet treat after a visit to the catacombs or the neighborhood’s historic buildings.
A third route, more suited to the evening and offering scenic views, follows the waterfront: take the metro or a taxi to Via Partenope, stroll past Castel dell’Ovo, and stop at Chalet Ciro. In this case, the gelato matters, but so does the scenery.
Gelato, sorbet, or coviglia?
If you want to taste something truly Neapolitan, don’t stop at just a cone. Look for a coviglia, perhaps at a historic café. Try a lemon or citrus sorbet. Choose flavors that reflect the region: Sorrento lemon, Vesuvius apricot, hazelnut, chocolate, milk, and almond.
Naples may not be the Italian capital of artisanal gelato today. But it remains a city where every dessert has a story, and where even a sorbet can become a little journey through time: from the snowfields of Vesuvius to Leopardi, from 19th-century cafés to evening strolls along the waterfront.
And, as is often the case in Naples, the greatest pleasure lies not only in the taste, but in the journey you take to get there.
Francesco, Host at Casetta Correra
